On average, for sharpening a push mower blade you are looking at $5 to $15 dollars to get them sharpened, balanced, and ready to go. Some blades may cost more, if they incorporate special alloys, are for larger mowers, or require complex steps to sharpen. For these, $20 to $60 may be a more realistic estimate – call your Hardware store with the make and model for an exact quote.
In today’s article, we’ll talk about sharpening, repair, lifespan, and general maintenance of your blades. We’ve compiled the most commonly asked questions, so read on for the facts that you need to know about maintain your mower blades!
How often should lawn mower blades be sharpened?
On average, for every 20 to 25 hours of work use, you will want to sharpen your mower blades. This will help to extend their life, as wear and tear definitely occurs and it can build up quickly.
By keeping your blades sharp, you’ll always get an even cut, and provided you don’t incur any surprise damage then you shouldn’t need to replace your blade for at least 100 hours.
How often do landscapers sharpen mower blades?
Lawn Care professionals tend to sharpen their blades every 20 to 25 hours, much like you would with personal use. Barring those incidents where your blades get dinged or dented by running over rocks or the occasional small tree hiding in the weeds, your blades can generally take a beating, so every 20 to 25 hours a good sharpening session is generally all you need.
How long do mower blades last?
Standard and mulching blades will typically last in the neighborhood of 100 – 200 hours of work use before you will need to replace them. This is provided that you are cleaning them between sessions and sharpening them every 20 to 25 hours to keep your blades nice and sharp. Some blades incorporate metal alloys and can last even longer, up to 400 hours in some cases!
How much does a lawn mower blade cost?
It varies depending on the type, but standard blades can often run around $12 – $30, while Zero turn mower blades might run $12 – $31, and riding mower blades are approximately $10 to $40. You can shop around quite a bit at your local hardware store or online and get a good set of blades for very little money – it just takes a little patience.
How often should lawn mower blades be replaced?
While every 100 to 200 hours is a good idea, if your blades incur a lot of damage then they may need to be replaced sooner. A visual confirmation is generally all that you need.
Deep dents, bends, or curvature of the blade can affect performance greatly and even damage your mower, so if the blade looks to be in very bad shape and sharpening isn’t going to help, then don’t hesitate to replace your blades.
Do you sharpen new mower blades?
There is no need to sharpen newly purchased blades, as they should already sharpened to an optimal edge. You might want to feel the edge at this point, to make a mental reference for future sharpening, but beyond this all that you really need to do is simply install your new blades and they will be ready for mowing right away.
Do you sharpen both sides of a lawn mower blade?
No, you don’t need to sharpen both sides of a mower blade. If you look closely at the blade, you’ll notice that the edge is only beveled on one side, and this is the only cutting edge that you need.
You can get the proper sharpening angle by holding your file against the existing angle and then sharpening in one direction only (you can tell, as it will meet resistance).
Can a lawn mower blade be too sharp?
Yes, a mower blade can be TOO sharp, and this is not a good idea. If you try to hone the blade to a razor’s edge, then it will not only dull very quickly, but the thinned metal is going to be more prone to incidental damage. Typically, the ideal sharpness is going to be the edge that the blade had when you purchased it.
If you aren’t sure, try for about the same sharpness as a butter knife and that should be just about perfect.
How do you sharpen a lawnmower blade without removing it?
Sharpening a blade without removing it is sometimes an option, though it will depend on your particular motor. You will need to put it on wood blocks or suspend it with another means available in your garage or outside, so that the mower is still and secure and you can access the blades easily.
At this point, a handheld angle grinder can make short work of sharpening the blades although you can use files if you don’t have a grinder.
Is it OK to cut the grass when wet?
One of the fastest ways to dull your blades is to mow when the grass is wet, so you’ll want to avoid then whenever it is possible.
Wet grass is much harder for your blades to cut through and it is also much more prone to clumping, so if you can wait then it’s a better idea to let your lawn dry out before you tackle the work of mowing it. Your blades will last much longer if you get in this habit now!
Does Ace sharpen mower blades?
Yes, hardware stores such as Ace are great places to get your blades sharpened. Prices will vary, but hardware stores like Ace generally charge in the neighborhood of $5 to $15 to sharpen and balance your blades for you. This can be a real time-saver if you are on a tight schedule and you’ll only need to bring your blades in every 20 to 25 hours of work use.
Do new mower blades need balancing?
No, new mower blades do not need to be balanced or sharpen, as they will come from the factory with the perfect balance and edge already. You can simply remove your old blades, install the new ones, and get started on your lawn once this is done.
Can you straighten lawn mower blades?
If you are comfortable doing it, you can straighten out bends on your own, provided that you have an anvil and channel locks in your home workshop. Simply put the flat, no-bend end of your blade on the anvil and slowly correct the bend with your channel locks. Alternately, you can take it in to your local hardware store to have it done as well.
Hi, I’m John Stephens, chief editor and writer for Totalgardener.com. I’ve been gardening and raising animals for over 15 years starting with a small backyard plot in Northern Virginia where I grew corn, potatoes, squash, and using a high mulch technique called the Ruth Stout Method. I also raised ducks and small mammals for meat and eggs in a movable pen similar to the ones used by Joel Salatin. I later moved to Colorado where I experimented with growing greens using aquaponics inside. I eventually added a microgreens setup and home sprouting operation. I’m excited to share everything I’ve learned plus more from the other local gardening and animal raising experts I know.