Hi lift mower blades are one of the best blades for bagging, but we should not that the clippings produced are slightly larger than standard blades. This makes sense, however, as High lift blades are designed for trimming taller and more dense grass and weed growths. The elevation of the blades and improved circulation of the design keep your mower from stalling when you mow higher grasses.
In today’s article, we’ll answer some popular questions about different blades options and the maintenance needed to make them last. Let’s take a look at what people are asking the most about their mower blades!
Which is better mulching blade or high lift?
Actually, they are both perfect for their specific tasks. Mulching blades are designed to sit low, with 3 inches being the optimal height, and they trim the grass while reducing the cuttings into pieces small enough to drop from the mower and fertilize your lawn.
By contrast, high lift blades are designed to sit higher and to circulate the air, so that you can cut higher grasses and weeds with relative ease and with less worry that the engine is going to clog and subsequently stall. Mulching blades can’t do this, just as High lift blades are unsuitable for mulching.
Are Gator blades better than high lift blades?
Gator blades do have improved air circulation, but it’s still an ‘apples to oranges’ type comparison. With Gators, bagging and side discharge is more efficient, but the blades are still set low to the ground. With High lift blades, the blades are set higher and designed not for mulching, but for cutting tall and dense overgrowths of weeds and grasses.
Are high lift blades better for bagging?
Yes. While the clippings produced will be slightly larger than standard blades, the excellent air circulation from the high lift blades makes them one of the best choices out there for bagging. Just keep in mind, if you are mowing a lot of dense growth, your bag can fill up fairly quickly!
Are Copperhead mower blades good?
Copperhead blades are good quality blades when it comes to mulching, but they do suffer from the same deign issue that standard mulching blades do. Their design tends to push down on grass, rather than lift, and this can mean a slight, but noticeable drop in air-power when it comes to side-discharge and for bagging.
If this is a problem, Gator blades have a modified design that does not suffer from this issue.
What does ego high lift blade do?
The Ego High lift blade is designed for Ego and compatible mowers, measuring in at standard size – approximately 21 inches. – and optimized for cutting dense overgrowths and for bagging. These blades have excellent air circulation, so that they can make short work of tall grasses and bag them both quickly and efficiently.
Can you sharpen Gator blades?
Yes, you can and you should. The proper maintenance schedule to get the most work life out of your Gator blades is going to be sharpening them once every 20 to 25 hours of use. You only need to sharpen the actual edge on your Gators, but leave the teeth alone – these won’t need sharpening and will work just fine for mulching leaves as they are.
Do you sharpen mulching blades?
Mulching blades should be sharpened as regularly as you would standard blades. This means that for every 20 to 25 hours of use, you should remove the blades, clamp them into a vice, and sharpen the cutting edge with an angle grinder, whetstone, or files. Alternatively, you can bring them in to your local hardware store where they will do it for you.
The cost typically runs between $5 and $15 and they will also balance the blade for you, which also must be done after sharpening,
Can I use mulching blades with side discharge?
You can, but there is a noticeable loss of power when it comes to side discharge and especially for bagging. With bagging, this can sometimes result in bags only filling 2/3 of the way, rather than full. There are specialized mulching blades out there, such as 8Ten and Gator blades, that are designed more aerodynamically to avoid this issue.
Upgrading to one of these blades should allow you to do side discharge or bagging with no circulation issues.
When should I replace my mower blades?
It is recommended that you replace your mower blades every year or once every 100 to 200 hours of use. With regular sharpening, you can help to ensure that they last a little longer, but eventually when you’ve sharpened it enough the metal will thin down and become more prone to curling or other incidental damage.
With some commercial blades, you can find steel with toughening additives, or tungsten carbide edges, and many of these blades can last up to 400 hours with proper care.
Are new lawn mower blades sharp?
Most new mower blades are going to come to you fully sharpened and balanced. You can feel the edge safely, as it won’t be sharp enough to cut you, and this will give you a good idea of how sharp you will want it to be after a sharpening session. After that, remove your old blades, put the new ones on, and you are ready for mowing right away!
Are mulching blades dull?
Mulching blades should be kept sharp, though never ‘razor sharp’. Ideally, a cutting edge about as sharp as a butter knife is what you are going for, and you’ll want to sharpen that blade every 20 to 25 hours of use. This is very important with mulching blades, as a dull blade can rip up grass instead of cutting it, and is in more danger of corrosion.
Sharpening your blades at home or bringing them in to your local hardware store for regular maintenance will keep your mulching blades performing at their best.
Is mulching better than side discharge?
It really depends on what you want to do. If you are looking to just mow the lawn quickly, then Side discharge is the fastest – just be sure to mow so that the strip that you are currently mowing will send discharged grasses to the strip that you previously mowed, and you can leave the clippings if you like.
That said, mulching is a little slower, but it is definitely better for your lawn. The clippings produced are smaller, so they will decay faster, and they are less noticeable when left on the lawn.
Hi, I’m John Stephens, chief editor and writer for Totalgardener.com. I’ve been gardening and raising animals for over 15 years starting with a small backyard plot in Northern Virginia where I grew corn, potatoes, squash, and using a high mulch technique called the Ruth Stout Method. I also raised ducks and small mammals for meat and eggs in a movable pen similar to the ones used by Joel Salatin. I later moved to Colorado where I experimented with growing greens using aquaponics inside. I eventually added a microgreens setup and home sprouting operation. I’m excited to share everything I’ve learned plus more from the other local gardening and animal raising experts I know.
